Our last day of the Sardine Run. Tomorrow we leave for a few days of safari in Botswana, which will be lovely but not the same as this last wonderful week. Sad on so many levels – not the least of which was because the sun was out and the sea was calm. Within a half hour of launching we’d found a little bait ball and snorkeled as the gannets and dolphins leaped around us. The visibility was poor and we were feeling lucky, so we decided to hunt for bigger and better activity.

No luck. We crisscrossed the ocean and found nothing. At one point, all the SEAL boats congregated together in the spot of the last bait ball, and we tossed jokes about the lack of activity.

Mid-Ocean Zodiac Convention (not a bird to be seen)

The most exciting part of the day was a staged PR moment when SEAL 1 and SEAL 2 positioned themselves next to one another and sped through the waves while Crash and a videographer flew above us for footage.

A Crash Fly-By

Walkie Talkie Humor

The walkie-talkie conversations between the skippers and Crash gives us endless amusement during the lulls. Last night in the bar I taught some of the skippers and crew the overused phrase “talk to the hand” which, despite the international distribution of Jerry Springer Shows, had somehow not translated to this part of the world. We had a good laugh and moved on, and I thought nothing of it until today on the boat when we heard an hilarious exchange between Kevin and Crash:

Kevin: “Crash. Crash. SEAL 5. Come in.”

Crash: “Crash here. Go ahead SEAL 5.”

Kevin: “Are you near that low-flying plane up there?”

Crash: “I am. It’s just up ahead.”

Kevin: “Do they spot any activity?”

Crash: “Don’t know. Their communication link isn’t up.”

Kevin: “Can you knock on their window and ask?”

Crash: “Talk to the hand, SEAL 5.”

Then later, Kevin radioed çois to ask about bird activity, and çois replied that we had no gannets.

Kevin: “I disagree, SEAL 2. I believe you do have gannets.”

çois: “No. No gannets.”

Kevin: “You have Giggling Gannets. What kind of activity are they up to?”

It took us a split second to realize he was talking about me and Evvy who were, ironically enough, laughing at that precise moment about Evvy’s helpful identification of a “metal gannet” (aka the low-flying airplane).

Deep Oceanic Thoughts

In mid-afternoon çois took us beyond the Continental Shelf toward some bird activity and we suddenly found ourselves in ten-foot swells that looked less than inviting. Though I – from my perch in the crow’s nest – was enthralled by the dark blue color of the waves, çois made me get down before he navigated us to calmer waters.

Our final African boat landing was at 1PM this afternoon. Part of me was ready to get in to the warmth and the dryness, but a bigger part wanted to stay out on the water forever. çois reckoned that I’ve missed my calling; he says that I “get the ocean” and he thinks my love of it is wasted in Manhattan. He might be right.

An African Boat Landing (with the added bonus of a Crash Fly-By and a Dodge-the- Paramedic)

Skip (one of the guests) asked me today if I would come back next year. My gut instinct was to say, “Yes! Of course!” but after thinking on this I know that next year would be completely different. It’s not the whales and the dolphins or the sharks that have made this trip so special. It’s the people. The time. The place. And my willingness to be open to all of this. Next year might detract from the spirit of this last special week, so next year I’ll choose another adventure.

South African Braai

The lodge held a braai for us – a traditional African barbeque of lamb, chicken, and sausage, and we used the time to exchange contact information and – of course – run up our tabs at the bar. Evvy and I were ridiculously picture happy since we knew this would be the last we’d see our beloved dive crew. Each person on the staff brought his or her element to this amazing week. Neville is a plethora of reef knowledge and a warm, patient heart. Kevin’s wicked sharp sense of humor is perfectly balanced by Chris’ class and maturity. Ulrich – one of South Africa’s few PADI Course Directors – is a solid, old soul who sits back and observes with a wise eye. çois and Andy are our pranksters; full of blue jokes and double entendres that bite with wit. Ant is a rock of strength and knowledge who instills confidence in each person around him. Andy and Renall and golden-hearted and kind-eyed. Brad is sweet with his quiet ways. Davey is warmth and affection rolled into one, and his friendship is one I know I’ll have for years. And Nic is our charismatic salesman, working the room with his humor, his confidence, and his deep, engaging voice.

The celebration lasted well into the night, during which time many of our fellow guests were overserved in both enthusiasm and the occasional shot glass. It’s going to be a long, tough ride to Durban tomorrow.